The key to makeup for castings is appearing as though you’re not wearing any. For models, this goes beyond the «no make-up» look, to the «simply stepped off the beautiful people boat» look. In fact, almost all agencies (excluding those in most Asian markets) ask their models to go barefaced so the clients can see the models as blank canvases to be sculpted.
Young models can often get away with just moisturizer, however I’ve noticed that as models get older more makeup is expected. That being said, it should never be visible or obvious that you’re wearing anything other than your own impeccable skin.
Stay away from foundation if you can. If your skin isn’t very clear, don’t cover it up with a thick foundation because that’ll only prolong the problem and it rarely looks natural. Instead, opt for a tinted moisturizer or a BB cream. This will subtly even out your complexion without looking like a plasticine mask.
One coat of mascara is usually plenty for eye makeup. Once I had an agency in London who asked that I wear a smokey eye for all of my castings. This did not bode well for me and needless to say, the agency doesn’t exist anymore. If you’re thinking, “Yeah, but I look drop-dead gorgeous with a cat-eye on,» let the clients see that in your portfolio, not in person.
One little touch I like to add is a subtle highlighter. I use Nars Luxor, which has a lovely pinkish sheen and looks beautiful on the tops of the cheeks, brow bones, down the nose and on the cupid’s bow (the curve above your top lip). Nars actually does really great creamy products called Multiples, which can be applied as lip or cheek products and are super convenient as on-the-road applications if you’re in a hurry or in the casting van.
If you’re auditioning for something on camera, it’s acceptable to enhance your features slightly but stay away from colourful lipsticks — unless it’s integral to your character. Otherwise, it can distract from your performance.
You’re a model because you’re naturally beautiful. Don’t cover that up with false eyelashes and harsh contouring or clients will assume that you need them to look presentable. Go in as you are and be confident that the way you look is what got you through the door in the first place.